This trumpet befuddled the band director(and her trumpet playing band director husband) as to why it wasn’t playing well, and how they could feel air escaping. It took me a while, but I finally found the split in the leadpipe. In normal light it was very hard to see the split. Here’s how I fixed it:
Left Pic – Split in leadpipe…about 3 inches long
Right Pic – Sheet brass patch after cutting to preliminary shape
Left Pic – Patch cut to final shape
Right Pic – Lacquer removed and patch bent to contour of leadpipe
Left Pic – Other view of patch contoured to fit
Right Pic – Wire tied on leadpipe, prior to soldering
Left Pic – Soldered, but not cleaned up
Right Pic – Buffed and ready to go
The KING of Tenor Saxes was brought in for a total repad. The customer decided on Black Roo (Kangaroo Hide) pads with Gold Reso-Tone Resonators.
Left Pic – Ready for disassembly
Right Pic – Notice the duct tape on the Low Eb….UGH!
Left Pic – All disassembled
Right Pic – Keys ready for cleaning
Left Pic – Black Roo pads with Gold Reso-Tones
Right Pic – Pad Fitting almost complete
Left Pic – Assembly begins
Right Pic – Lower stack ready
Left Pic – Bells Keys on
Right Pic – Upper stack ready
Tenor sax came in and the palm D key rod had sheared off. This doesn’t happen often but does occasionally. Rods with a small throat(area between the threads and main part of rod) are very susceptible to this type of problem.
Left Pic – You can see the broken thread section extending out of the post. I’ve partially removed the threaded section here.
Right Pic – The key with the broken rod, now with the threaded section totally out
Left Pic – Time to find a donor rod…looking for something with the same threads and about the same size or slightly bigger in diameter. Length I’m not too concerned about length, since I can always cut off the extra.
Right Pic – Found one….just slightly bigger in diameter….will have to drill out key and post, but the threads already fit.
Left Pic – Drilled out and fits perfect.
Right Pic – Rod is too long, but that’s easily solved.
Left pic – Problem solved, now to cut the slot
Right Pic – This is my slot cutter. The metal sleeve has various holes for different size rods. The blade cuts the slot.
All done and ready to go.
Left Photo – Hard to see, but there is a crack running from the metal tube inside the bore to the tenon cap
Right Photo – Used a super thin super glue with a small bottle and teflon flexible tip
Left Photo – You can see the glue in and around the crack
Right Photo – My high tech holding system
All back together
3-Piece Giardinelli Trumpet Mouthpiece where the shank was seized to the bowl section. Whacked it with a rawhide; wrapped it in silicone tape and tried to free it with a 2 pairs of pliers; froze it, then heated the bowl…nada….finally whacked it a few more times with the rawhide, grabbed it wearing 2 heavy rubber gloves, and it popped free. Cleaned the threads and reassembled.
Repairing 3 cracks in one of our rental violins.
Left Pic – 2 cracks in the top, on the lower right side
Right Pic – Small cleat super-glued to clamp. This cleat will be glued to the underside of the crack through the F-Hole. The super glue will pull away from the clamp, leaving the cleat glued underneath the crack
Left Pic – 2 Clamps w/cleats ready to go inside
Right Pic – 2 Clamps going through the F-Hole. 1 Clamp drawing the crack closed
Left Pic – Gluing a small crack near the F-Hole
Right Pic – Another view of same crack
Left Pic – Broken String Bass End Pin with part of it still stuck inside
Right Pic – How else would you get out a broken bass end pin….a valve slide expander, of course…
Left Pic – I just slid it in, tightened the knob to expand the end a bit, and pulled the broken piece out
Right Pic – Replacement end pin is too big; it will need to be trimmed down
Left Pic – Chucked up in the lathe and slowly trim down the taper
Right Pic – Checking with the calipers
Left Pic – almost ready to go…final fitting was done with a band sander